The Lagoon of Venice
The purpose of the boat tour was to spend a few hours visiting some of the other
islands in the lagoon – Murano, Burano and Torcello. Our tour guide was a blond,
multilingual young woman who talked almost continuously, repeating her many
descriptions in three or four different languages. Our first stop was the island
of Murano, world famous for its glassware.
Aboard the Boat
Heading for Murano
A Murano Glass Factory
We didn't see a great deal of this island, being marched directly into a glass
factory from the boat and, later, directly back to the boat from the glass factory.
In between there was a demonstration by an Italian glassblower who created a vase
and a glass horse and banged loudly on a tray for tips after he was finished.
In the Glass Factory
Glass Furnace
Making a Vase
Blowing Air Into the Vase
Rolling the Glass
Making a Horse
Shaping the Horse
Finished Horse
Hot Glass Demonstration
Then we were routed into a store attached to the factory which sold beautiful
and pricey handmade glassware. Photography in the store was forbidden for some
reason, but I didn't notice this until one of the salespeople called it to my
attention. We didn't buy any of the glassware, as it was too expensive.
In the Glass Store
Our next destination was the island of Burano, which is distinctive in appearance
for a couple of reasons. First, many of the buildings are painted in bold
primary colors, adding an element of cheerfulness to our visit despite the
suddenly cloudy weather. And second, even from a great distance one could see
that the old bell tower of the main church (the Church of San Martino) was
noticeably crooked.
Back on the Boat
Islet with Ruined Building
Leaning Tower of Burano
Approaching Burano
Burano
Nella and San Martino Destra
Burano is famous for its hand-made lace, and we were herded toward a lace store
called Merletti "dalla Olga" (Laces by Olga). We were given a brief
description of how the laces are produced (a painstaking process involving
multiple women) and invited to have a look around the store. The laces were
amazing and expensive (they didn't seem to care about photography at this
store), and again we didn't buy anything.
Lace Shop
Guide Describing Lace Sample
Lacemaker
In the Lace Shop
Lace for Sale
After the lace shop, we were given some time to explore the island a little.
Philip had skipped the lace shop completely and was nowhere to be seen. The
rest of us explored the area of the square (Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi)
on which the lace shop was located. Also located on this square was the
Church of San Martino, which we found to have a lovely interior.
Church and Piazza
Bell Tower, Church of San Martino
Interior, Church of San Martino
Inside the Church
Opposite the church was a street (Via Baldassarre Galuppi) lined with
many shops catering to tourists. We only had time to look at a couple of them
before it was time to return to the boat. We still hadn't seen Philip, and
were hoping he had the sense to return to the boat before its departure, and
when we got back to the boat, we were pleasantly surprised to discover that he
did.
Via Baldassarre Galuppi
Via Baldassarre Galuppi
Church from Via Baldassarre Galuppi
Torcello, the last island we visited, is actually very close to Burano and in
the 10th Century was the site of the most populous settlement in the lagoon. As
the lagoon around Torcello became more swampy and malarial, the citizenry
gradually departed for the other islands. The structures which housed the
population were also scavenged for materials to use on the other islands, until
very little remained in terms of people or buildings. The current population is
about 20 people, and of the few remaining buildings, two co-located churches are
the main points of interest. One of the churches, the Cathedral of Santa Maria
Assunta, was originally built in 639 AD, but renovations in the 9th and 11th
Centuries largely replaced the original structure. The Cathedral houses the
remains of St. Heliodorus, the patron saint of the island. The other church,
the Church of Santa Fosca, was built in the 11th and 12th Centuries.
We were dropped off at the Torcello boat landing and told to return within an
hour. The landing was about one-third of a mile from the churches. Normally
not a problem, except by this time the clouds that had moved in were looking
unmistakably threatening. And the lack of habitation meant there was
essentially no shelter between the landing and the churches. We followed a
canal for most of the distance and arrived at the churches just as the downpour
commenced.
Canal, Torcello
Walk and Basilica
Basilica and Santa Fosca Church
Basilica di Santa Maria dell' Assunta
Santa Fosca Church and Rain
Philip and Nella contented themselves with watching the rain from a sheltered
walkway, but Connie and I paid the entry fee and entered the Cathedral. The
Cathedral was found to be mostly devoid of tourists and was sparsely decorated
as cathedrals go. But there was an impressive mosaic of The Last Judgment, as
well as a sign forbidding photography. We obeyed the sign, which may have
been a factor in the rain stopping just in time for us to get back by the
deadline. Or maybe not. Regardless, we were grateful to get back to the boat
in a relatively dry condition.
Back to the Boat Landing
Burano from Torcello
The boat returned us to the main island and dropped us off at the spot where
the tour began. We returned to our hotel for a little rest and took a little
time to check out the hotel's view of the Grand Canal (unfortunately not
available from our room). We went back out into the city, and after a little
bit of aimless wandering (a highly recommended activity), we eventually
found ourselves across the Rialto Bridge again, eating dinner at the restaurant
which had not yet been open on our first night in the city (this time we were
late enough).
Grand Canal from Westin Hotel
Grand Canal from Westin
Crossing the Rialto Bridge
Dinner was delicious, and afterward we did a little window shopping. There were
many displays of colorful glass, some from Murano and some from parts unknown.
Glass Display
Christmas Glass
Then we returned to our respective hotels to rest up for the next day. Our plan
was to start by exploring the other side of the canal.